how-to-clean-tablecloths-the-right-way
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How to Clean Tablecloths the Right Way

ByNafeesah Allen

Tablecloths protect table surfaces from wear and tear, as they are susceptible to heat damage, spills, and scratches. While the cloth helps extend the life of your table surface, tablecloths are worth preserving too, as they add a touch of luxury to your home dining experience. Spills are inevitable, but stains don’t have to be. Knowing how to properly clean tablecloths is crucial in maintaining them so you can use them again and again. Here’s everything you need to know about cleaning up spills, preventing stains, and washing tablecloths. Tablecloths come in various designs, textures, and materials. Cleaning instructions vary significantly by material: cotton, linen, polyester, satin, organza, lace, and silk all have their own guidelines. While most of these materials are machine-friendly, others are hand-wash only. Check the fabric care label for targeted instructions before cleaning so you can use the ideal water temperature and recommended detergents. For machine-washable cloth, blot excess liquids and scrape off (don’t rub) food residue. Pre-treat stains with a gentle removal solution, then machine wash according to care instructions. If care instructions aren’t available, generally, you can use warm water with gentle detergent on a low agitation cycle to clean polyester or cotton. If stains persist after the wash cycle, repeat the pre-treatment and run the cycle again. Do not mix whites with colors. Hand wash delicate fabrics, like silk, velvet, lace, and embroidered or beaded fabrics. Use cold water and mild detergent. If the care label says machine washable, place the tablecloth in a mesh laundry bag on a gentle or delicate cycle. Tablecloths made of plastics, vinyl, or disposable materials are mostly wipe-clean only. Even hand washing can damage or tear them, so simply use a damp cloth to wipe them down. Try warm water and mild soap for tough stains.  How to Remove Tough Stains from Tablecloths Every stain is unique, but there are universal rules of thumb to treat stains as effectively as possible. Identify the original source to select the most effective method. With any stain removal treatment, test the solution on a small area of the cloth before applying it widely. Here is how to remove common tablecloth stains. Red Sauces Blot the excess sauce with a paper towel. If the fabric is washable, run cold water through the back of the stain immediately. Then, rub liquid detergent into the stain gently in a circular motion and let it set for 5 minutes before rinsing with cold water. If there are additional care instructions on the label, try those tactics. You should see the stain disappearing before it dries. If the stain is still there, repeat the cleaning process. Alternatively, apply a mixture of liquid detergent and baking soda directly onto the stain. Let it sit for 15 to 20 minutes before washing again. For linen, satin, silk, or lace, you may need to proceed with caution. For antiques or delicates, don’t take the risk—try dry cleaning. If you go the DIY route, soak the cloth in a gentle dish soap mixed with water. Let it sit for at least 30 minutes before handwashing. Do not scrub too hard to avoid ruining the fibers. If your linen is white, apply white vinegar or lemon juice to release the stain. Let it sit for a while before washing with warm water. If all else fails, use a commercial stain remover specifically for that material. Oil-Based Food Blot any liquid oil stain with a paper towel or scrape off oily solids with a dull plastic scraper. Sprinkle baking soda or cornstarch over the stain. Let it sit for a few minutes to absorb excess oil, then wash with warm water. If this doesn’t work, create a paste using liquid detergent and baking soda. Apply it on the stain and let it sit for 15 to 20 minutes before washing. Red Wine Soak up any wine with a paper towel. Avoid rubbing the stain to prevent it from penetrating deeper into the fabric fibers. Sprinkle salt generously over the stain and let it sit for 10 minutes. Rinse with cold water. If the wine stain persists, directly apply a small amount of mild detergent. Rub gently with your fingertips or a soft bristle brush. Follow any additional requirements suited to the fabric material. On white linens, pour club soda over the stain, allow it to fizz, and then blot out the released wine. As you plot with a paper towel, the stain should lift and lighten. A hydrogen peroxide and water solution (1:2) should work well for stubborn stains, too. Let the mixture sit for 15 minutes, blot, and wash. Candle Wax Let the candle wax cool and become solid, then scrape off the wax using a plastic scraper or a dull knife. Cover the remaining wax with paper towels or absorbent brown paper, and then use a warm iron on top of the paper to melt and remove the remaining wax. Pen or Marker Rubbing alcohol works well to dissolve ink pigment. To blot the ink stain, use a dampened cotton ball with rubbing alcohol, then rinse the spot with cold water. Wash normally—by hand or machine, based on the material—and the stain should disappear. How to Dry and Store Clean Tablecloths After cleaning tablecloths, proper drying is essential to prevent mold and mildew. Put polyester and cotton in a dryer on low heat to minimize wrinkling, then fold or

9-common-mistakes-to-avoid-when-storing-firewood
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9 Common Mistakes to Avoid When Storing Firewood

ByKatelyn Squiers

There are few things better than a warm fire on a chilly evening. But your cozy night in or campfire get-together can quickly go up in flames if you haven’t stored your firewood correctly. Using proper storage techniques is vital for creating the perfect fire while also keeping insects away from the party. Here are nine common firewood storage mistakes you should avoid to prevent smoky fires and pest infestations. 1. Leaving Wood Uncovered One of the main priorities of firewood storage is making sure the wood stays dry. Since wood is typically stored outdoors, you should avoid leaving it uncovered. For effective dry storage, your wood stack needs to be in a covered area or underneath a tarp to protect it from rain and snow. Damp wood is harder to ignite, has a shorter burn time with less heat, and produces more smoke, which can dampen your cozy night by the fire. Insects also love to hang out in damp wood, which can leave you with unwanted guests if you bring your wood into the house for an indoor fire. You should only store firewood inside if it has been kiln-dried. Other wood types can contain insects or mold and require further drying outdoors. 2. Storing Near the House It can be tempting to place a wood stack near your house for easy access, but insects and termites are attracted to wood. If your woodpile is close to your house, these pests can easily travel indoors, damage siding, and be a nuisance. Wood storage near your house can also be a fire hazard, as an accidental ignition could quickly burn through your woodpile and extend to your house. Although not as convenient, firewood storage should be several feet away from your home. 3. Storing Near Trees and Other Structures Since storing your woodpile near your house is out of the picture, the next spot you set your eye on might be near a tree, shed, or another structure in your yard. However, this can still lead to issues with air circulation. Your wood stack should stay dry, which means it needs to receive proper ventilation. For this to happen, firewood needs to be out in the open rather than next to something that blocks airflow. A storage spot with airflow will also keep your woodpile out of shady areas during the day, which will give it more time in the sun to keep dry. 4. Storing Directly on the Ground When wood sits directly on the ground, it’s more likely to absorb excess moisture, which will lead to mold, mildew, and decayed wood. Your woodpile is also likely to pick up pests from the soil. Either stack your wood on a concrete surface or set up wooden beams or pallets to elevate the pile off the ground. This will promote proper airflow underneath the wood and help prevent an infestation. 5. Stacking Too Tightly How you stack firewood is just as important as where you store it. A poor stacking technique can restrict airflow, which can cause it to get damp and moldy. While you might want to stack logs close together to maximize space, firewood should be stacked loosely so there are small gaps between each piece. This extra space keeps the pieces dry, which will give you longer burn times and minimize smoke. 6. Stacking Too High Your wood stack should stay within a height of four feet. Anything higher can compromise the stability of the pile, which can be a safety issue. This also ensures that the highest pieces are easy to access. If you have to stretch up to reach logs, you’re more likely to knock things out of place or lose grip on the pieces you’re grabbing. If you don’t have a manufactured wood stacker, consider placing posts on each end of your woodpile to keep it from toppling to one side. 7. Not Stacking at All Although it might make for a quick setup, leaving logs in a disorderly pile is bad for airflow, Even if your wood stack is elevated, it can become damp and grow mold without proper stacking that promotes proper air circulation. One popular method is to lay your wood in straight, horizontal rows, with each layer stacked in the opposite direction of the one below to create a crisscross pattern (think of a Jenga tower). This method is also great for extra stability. 8. Using New Wood First If you always reach for fresh wood pieces instead of fully cycling through your pile, you may be setting yourself up for a meet and greet with a colony of bugs. Infestations tend to happen in wood that’s been sitting for too long, so always use the oldest wood first. While stacking your pile, place the newest wood pieces on the bottom so the older pieces are easier to grab. If you’d like a helpful visual to separate your old and new wood, use a scrap piece of lumber to mark the difference. 9. Applying Pesticides Since bugs are one of the leading concerns of improper firewood storage, you might be tempted to apply pesticides to your wood. However, this can be dangerous and counterproductive. Burning firewood that has been treated with pesticides can release toxic fumes into the air that could be harmful to your health. Plus, you’ll miss out on that wonderfully smoky campfire smell that burning wood

how-to-remove-bathtub-rings-and-stop-them-from-coming-back
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How to Remove Bathtub Rings and Stop Them from Coming Back

ByHalee Miller Van Ryswyk

Unsightly or stubborn stains can make our tub feel and look dirty even after it has just been cleaned. If you feel like you’ve scrubbed endlessly at the stain rings in your bathtub without success, it might be time to try a new method. To help you make your bathtub sparkle, experts are sharing their best tricks to remove pesky rings and stains. Plus, discover how to prevent them from returning—for good. Here’s everything you need to know about scrubbing your tub. What Causes Bathtub Rings? Despite regular cleaning, a light outline around the inside of your bathtub can still appear and be tough to remove. According to Vanesa Amaro, TikTok’s “Queen of Cleaning” and Clorox spokesperson, bathtub rings or stains are typically a combination of soap, scum, body oils, dirt, and mineral deposits from hard water. “When water evaporates, it leaves behind a residue that can cling to the surface of a bathtub,” Amaro says. “Body care containers or even a forgotten bobby pin can also leave rings and rust marks behind. Regularly cleaning your tub can help reduce stains and rings.” Do not use abrasive tools on your bathtub (especially on acrylic, porcelain, or fiberglass) to prevent damage like scratches or chips. Grant Webster How to Remove Bathtub Rings Using Commercial Cleaners Remove hard water, mold, and mildew rings or stains with commercial cleaning products that are either multi-surface or meant for the bathtub specifically. Always read the product’s instructions before using it. Clear out the tub: Remove all shampoos, soaps, and other products from the bathtub to remove clutter from the space. This prevents any of the cleaners from getting on your bath products and you can now thoroughly clean all of the surfaces otherwise covered by them. Spray cleaning product: Amaro suggests spraying your choice of cleaning product 4-6 inches away from the tub, especially on the stained areas. Let the product sit for at least 30 seconds. Scrub, rinse, and dry: Gently scrub the area with a non-abrasive sponge before rinsing. Repeat if necessary. Dry the bathtub with a paper towel or microfiber towel to prevent water spots or streaks. How to Remove Bathtub Rings Using Bleach Bleach will not only clean your bathtub but also disinfect it, Amaro says. Be cautious when handling household bleach for cleaning purposes—wear rubber gloves, a mask, and eye protectors. Never mix bleach with any other household cleaners and always follow the product’s instructions. Do not use bleach on acrylic or colored bathtubs, as it can damage the coating and finish. Clear out the tub: Keep all of your bathing products safe from bleach by removing them all before you clean. Mix bleach solution: Mix a bleach solution with ⅓ cup of bleach per 1 gallon of water and put it into an empty spray bottle. Spray and let it sit: Spray the bleach and water solution directly on the tub, and let it soak for at least 6 minutes for complete disinfection. Scrub, rinse, and let dry: Scrub the stained area of the bathtub with a non-abrasive sponge or microfiber towel. Rinse the bleach solution thoroughly with warm water and use a microfiber towel to dry the bathtub completely. How to Remove Bathtub Rings Using Natural Ingredients Natural ingredients, like baking soda, white vinegar, and hydrogen peroxide can remove stains just as well as commercial cleaners. They can also provide a more affordable cleaning option and might already be in your pantry. Clear out the tub: Just like with other methods, remove all products from the bathtub so you have a clear space to clean and to protect your products. Mix and apply cleaning paste: Mix three parts baking soda to one part white vinegar or hydrogen peroxide for a homemade and effective cleaning paste. Apply the paste to the stained area and let it sit for as long as 30 minutes. Scrub and rinse: Use a non-abrasive sponge to scrub the paste into the stained areas to remove the rings. Thoroughly rinse away the paste before drying with a microfiber towel. Soak in vinegar (optional): If the stains are still persistent, fill the tub with hot water, add 3-5 cups of white vinegar, and let the solution soak for multiple hours. The vinegar can help break down the residual stains and soap scum. Drain and rinse the tub before completely drying with a microfiber towel. How to Prevent Bathtub Rings from Reappearing After all this work, you don’t want to have to scrub away stubborn stains again. Amaro recommends staying on top of a frequent and consistent cleaning schedule to prevent the rings from returning. “The more often you clean, the easier it is to keep your bathtub free of spots, rings, and stains. I typically recommend cleaning high-traffic areas like the bathroom, including your bathtub, about once a week,” Amaro says. “Even if you’re not using your bathtub often, I recommend at least spraying it down with cleaner and rinsing out the tub.”